There's a question that comes up from time to time when people discover our tallow skincare: Why don't you use essential oils?
The answer is actually pretty simple. We prefer working with the plants themselves.
That's not because I think essential oils are bad or that everyone who formulates with them is doing something wrong. Essential oils have a long history of use, and they certainly have their place in botanical skincare.
But the more I've studied herbalism and traditional plant preparations, the more interested I've become in working with whole flowers, leaves, roots + resins rather than automatically reaching for a concentrated essential oil.
And that philosophy has shaped how we formulate our tallow skincare at OCASA.
Essential Oils vs. Herbal Infusions: What's the Difference?
Essential oils are highly concentrated extracts of a plant's volatile aromatic compounds, typically obtained through steam distillation or expression.
Herbal oil infusions are different.
Instead of isolating the volatile aromatic compounds, we slowly steep whole or cut botanicals in a carrier oil, allowing certain oil-soluble plant constituents to become part of the infusion.
At OCASA, we use jojoba oil as the foundation for many of our botanical infusions, combining it with carefully selected flowers, herbs + resins.
Depending on the botanical, an infusion may contain oil-soluble aromatic compounds, pigments + other plant constituents. It isn't the same preparation as an essential oil, and the two aren't interchangeable.
That's exactly what interests me about herbal formulation. Different preparations allow us to work with different aspects of the same plant.
Why I Prefer Working With Whole Botanicals
I grew up in Europe, in a family where herbs, good food + traditional remedies were simply part of everyday life.
They weren't packaged as wellness. Nobody was talking about the latest botanical trend.
Herbs were just herbs.
You cooked with them, made tea with them, prepared traditional remedies + learned a little about what grew around you.
As I've continued studying herbalism and botanical skincare, I've found myself returning to that same philosophy.
I'm interested in plants as plants, not simply as ingredients that happen to be popular in skincare.
I want to know where they grow, how they're harvested, which parts are traditionally used + how different preparations change what we get from them.
An essential oil is one way of working with a plant. But it isn't the whole plant.
For me, working with botanical infusions feels closer to the herbal traditions I grew up around and the kind of skincare I want to make.
How We Make Our Herbal-Infused Tallow Skincare
Rather than adding essential oils to our tallow creams for fragrance, we use carefully prepared botanical oil infusions.
Some examples include:
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Vanilla Bean: Whole vanilla beans slowly infused into jojoba oil for their naturally warm aroma + skin-conditioning botanical compounds.
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Calendula: Calendula flowers infused into jojoba oil, traditionally valued for their soothing + skin-conditioning properties.
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Lavender: Whole lavender flowers infused into jojoba oil rather than using concentrated lavender essential oil.
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Frankincense: Real frankincense resin infused into botanical oil instead of simply adding frankincense essential oil.
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Coffee: Whole coffee beans infused into jojoba oil for a botanical preparation rich in coffee's naturally occurring oil-soluble compounds.
Each botanical has its own characteristics, and not every plant releases the same constituents into oil.
That's part of formulation: understanding which preparation makes sense for the ingredient and the finished product.
We're not simply trying to make tallow smell like lavender, vanilla or frankincense.
We're interested in the botanicals themselves.
Are Herbal Infusions Better for Sensitive Skin?
This is an important distinction.
Essential oils are concentrated preparations, and some can cause irritation or allergic reactions, particularly when used at inappropriate concentrations or on sensitive skin.
Choosing not to add essential oils allows us to formulate our tallow creams without those concentrated aromatic ingredients.
But that doesn't mean herbal infusions are automatically safer for everyone.
Whole botanicals contain naturally occurring compounds too, and individual sensitivities + allergies are always possible.
Essential oil-free doesn't mean allergy-proof.
Our goal isn't to claim that one preparation is universally better than another. It's to create thoughtful formulas for dry, sensitive + weather-exposed skin while being intentional about the ingredients we choose.
And sometimes, the most thoughtful decision is knowing what to leave out.
Why More Ingredients Don't Always Mean Better Skincare
I think this is something that gets lost in natural skincare.
There's a tendency to keep adding.
Another botanical. Another extract. Another oil. Another trendy ingredient.
Before long, a product can have an impressive-looking ingredient list without necessarily being a better formula.
I'm not particularly interested in that kind of complexity.
Our tallow already provides a beautifully rich foundation.
We start with pasture-raised, grass-fed + grass-finished beef kidney suet, which I slowly dry-render + filter before incorporating it into our skincare formulations.
From there, we choose botanical oils + infusions based on what they contribute to the finished product.
I don't want to bury a good foundation under fifteen additional ingredients simply because I can.
Every ingredient should have a reason for being there.
That doesn't mean every formula needs to contain only three ingredients. It means the ingredients should work together and the finished product should make sense.
Traditional Herbalism Meets Modern Skincare Formulation
The more I study herbalism, the more I appreciate how much there is to learn about preparing plants.
Infusions, decoctions, tinctures, oils + salves are all different preparations, each with its own purpose and limitations.
There's so much more to botanical skincare than collecting ingredients with impressive names.
I want to understand how an herb behaves in oil, how it complements other ingredients + what it actually contributes to the finished formula.
That's why our approach involves more than selecting a botanical because it happens to be popular.
We carefully source our ingredients, prepare our infusions + handcraft our skincare in small batches in the American West.
It takes time.
And I'm not particularly interested in making the process faster just for the sake of it.
This Isn't an Anti-Essential-Oil Statement
I want to make that clear.
Essential oils can absolutely have a place in skincare when they're appropriately formulated. In fact, we use them in select OCASA body care products.
We simply choose not to add them to our tallow moisturizers.
For those formulas, we prefer working with whole botanicals, traditional oil infusions + carefully selected skin-conditioning ingredients.
It's a formulation choice, not a statement that every product containing essential oils is bad.
And it's a choice that feels connected to the way I grew up, the herbalism I'm studying + the direction I want OCASA to take.
I don't believe a skincare product needs a powerful fragrance, a long ingredient list or the newest botanical trend to be worth using.
Sometimes, the most beautiful formulas are the ones where every ingredient has a purpose.
Good ingredients. Thoughtful formulation. No unnecessary extras.
That's the kind of skincare I want to make.
Explore Our Essential Oil-Free Tallow Skincare
Discover our handcrafted tallow moisturizers, made with carefully sourced ingredients + botanical oil infusions inspired by traditional herbal preparations.
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